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After the
capture
Saddam Hussein is in custody - but the anti-American uprisings in
Iraq are by no means over By David MartinezBAGHDAD
If the Americans thought things were going to calm down after nabbing
Saddam Hussein, they were wrong -- at least for the time being.
In fact, people here say it may actually help the resistance, since
now people can fight the occupation without fearing Saddam's return.
The streets of this city are filled with Iraqi police and US troops.
The gasoline lines are longer than ever, which is really making
people miserable. Yesterday I heard four bombs, and two of them
were big...the ground rumbled under my feet. Of course, there's
no mention of any of this in the local media, so I still don't know
where the bombs went off in the city. Yesterday morning, a bunch
of us decided to try and get to Tikrit, to cover the anti-American
demonstrations. But because of the gas crunch, we were having trouble
finding anyone to take us. Besides, the highways are sometimes blocked
by occupation forces. One group split to try and procure a car,
while the rest of us, myself and four others (two Frenchmen and
a Hungarian plus an Iraqi driver and translator) crammed into another
vehicle to go to Al Adamiyah, a section of Baghdad that is very
anti-occupation. The night before there had been demonstrations
there, and some journalist friends had tried to get in to cover
them, but were blocked by U.S. Humvees. We heard that several people
were shot. So we headed out to see what the next day would bring.
Who's who (maybe)
A word about the politics of anti-Occupation Iraqis: sometimes it's
hard to distinguish between pro-Saddam and anti-American sentiments.
Sometimes it's the same thing, sometimes not, and sometimes the
two blur together. Of course, lots of people are anti-Saddam AND
anti-Occupation, but in Al Adamiyah, I haven't been able to figure
it all out yet.
We arrived at the Abu Hanifa mosque in time for the funeral of one
of the men killed the night before, and were given permission to
enter the grounds and to film the event. The coffin was draped in
an Iraqi flag, and people were praying over it. Another crowd was
gathered in the small cemetery nearby, where men were digging the
grave. We set about taking pictures and interviewing people. Around
half an hour later, as we were waiting for the funeral to take place,
a masked Fedayeen appeared, wanting to talk to us and our cameras.
He stood behind the flag-draped coffin, his head wrapped in a khaffiyah,
an ammunition belt around his waist and a Kalashnikov in hand. He
shouted that he would never stop fighting the Americans, not until
the last one was dead or back in the USA. The crowd all began chanting
with him. And then another Fedayeen showed up, displaying the arm-patch
of an American MP that he claimed he had killed. He showed it off,
also stating his lifelong resistance to any foreign occupation,
and then he threw the patch to the ground and the crowd all stomped
on it. During all of this, our translator was constantly being followed
by irate Iraquis. They were angry about the media coverage of the
situation in Iraq, and specifically of Al Adamiyah. And like others
I have met, they blame the Iraqi translators, who think they are
lying to the foreign press. He was getting increasingly nervous.
About this time the funeral began, and the coffin was carried to
the grave. There was much crying and shouting and singing, and the
crowd was getting angry. After a point, they told us to stop filming.
People again confronted our driver/translator, and us. They said
they wanted to see the footage on television. Would it be on the
news? I tried to explain that we were independents, that the big
stations had money and satellites, and we did not, but we would
try our best to get the images on satellite news. Do you swear?
An old man asked me angrily. I swear, I said. En sh'allah. If God
wills it. They were still pissed off, and our Iraqi friend said
we had to leave. He feared for himself more than us. So we left.
'Do not come back!'On the way home, a massive bomb went off somewhere
in the city. When we got back to the hotel, we were just trying
to determine where it had happened, to go and film it, when a Scottish
freelancer came in and told us that a demonstration had started
at the very mosque we had left. So we decided to go back. But by
now it was almost four in the afternoon. There would be only one
hour of sunlight left, and the whole neighborhood could very well
be already sealed off. Out driver was still shaken by the first
trip, and plus he was out of gas, so he refused to go with us. And
Al Adamiyah has been completely without power for several days.
So we went without a translator or driver, and we hired a taxi.
When we arrived back at the mosque, the demo had ended. Nothing
was happening and the sun was setting. We decided to eat some dinner
and wait and see. We drank tea and ate chicken as the evening prayers
were called. The streets were dark, only the occasional generator-powered
neon tube or the flickers of a kebab roaster's flames lighting the
dirt roads. I walked around, and found a beautiful bakery, with
people waiting outside for bread. They were very nice, as are most
Iraqis about being photographed, and let me film the whole process
of rolling dough, laying out the trays, and baking the bread in
a roaring oven on long wooden trays. Just as I was leaving the bakery
the others ran up with one of our contacts from the neighborhood,
who told us the Americans were raiding a house nearby. We headed
off to see, winding down pitch-black alleys with overhanging wooden
balconies. We rounded a corner to see the street blocked by Humvees.
American soldiers peered nervously into the gloom over their rifles.
We approached slowly, our arms outstretched. "Journalists!", we
shouted. "These are cameras in our hands!" Blinding lights flooded
the area from the Hummers. A soldier yelled back: "Turn around,
go away and do not come back!" We stayed on the sidewalks, and I
got some decent, but very grainy shots of young, fresh-faced Americans
in helmets and armor coming in and out of the house. Our contact
said that our presence was good, even if we couldn't get close,
because it helps protect people if there are media around. Soon
the Hummers, all seven of them, finished their search and roared
away, and we went to interview the residents. They were pretty shaken,
as they said this was the third raid in two weeks. The Americans
were looking for their sons, who haven't been home in some time.
They are suspected resistance fighters. After that our contact gave
us a tour of the area, pointing out all the anti-US and pro-Saddam
graffiti. There was even a large stencil, about five feet wide,
that said, in English: "American soldier, go home before you are
put in a black bag and dumped in a river!" That stencil was repeated
numerous times on various walls. By now I had no idea where we were,
but I should add that at no time that evening did I feel in any
danger, at least not from Iraqis. I was more worried about the Americans
opening fire on us. Our contact led us to a main street after proudly
showing us his neighborhood and introducing us to his friends. We
hailed a taxi, after several tries (hardly any of them had enough
gas to get us back to our hotel), and headed home. The driver advised
us not to stay out so late, as we were in danger of arrest by the
Americans. We got home safely and met with the rest of our friends,
who had indeed tried to get to Tikrit, but were turned back by soldiers.
They had, however, worked the necessary channels and had received
permission to return in two days time. I think I will keep returning
to Al Adamiyah instead. The Hungarian journalist and I took our
film footage to Associated Press and Reuters, respectively, and
they both bought it from us. So I kept my promise to the old man
at the mosque. Perhaps now the world will see, if even for only
five minutes, the anger of the people of Al Adamiyah. En Sh'allah.
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